Italy · Europe
Eating in Naples: A Practical Guide
Naples invented the pizza most of the world eats badly. Here is where to eat it, what else to order, and how the city's timings work.
4 min read
40.6340° N, 14.6027° E · Europe
Amalfi Coast
Fifty kilometres of cliff road and lemon terraces
BeachesFoodLuxuryPhotography
- Best time
- May, June and late September
- How long
- 4–5 days
- Language
- Italian
- Currency
- Euro (EUR)
- Weather
- Mediterranean. July and August reach 30°C with peak crowds; May and late September sit around 24°C with warm sea. Ferries stop running in winter.
- Coordinates
- 40.6340° N, 14.6027° E
The overview
Villages stacked on near-vertical cliffs above the Tyrrhenian, connected by one narrow road, a good ferry network and a footpath along the ridge.
The Amalfi Coast is thirteen towns strung along a coastline that drops straight into the sea. Positano and Amalfi take the crowds; Atrani, Praiano, Furore and Cetara are minutes away and quieter by an order of magnitude. The SS163 corniche is spectacular and slow — expect 20 km/h averages in summer and coaches reversing around blind bends. The intelligent move is to leave the car behind entirely: ferries link the main towns from April to October, buses run the length of the coast, and the Path of the Gods walks the ridge above it all. Terraced lemon groves supported by chestnut poles cover the slopes, and the anchovy fleet at Cetara still supplies the region's colatura.
Highlights
- The Path of the Gods from Bomerano to Nocelle
- Ferry hopping between Amalfi, Positano and Praiano
- Ravello's garden terraces above the coast
- Anchovies and colatura in Cetara
- Atrani's square, five minutes' walk from Amalfi and half as busy
Best seasons
Spring
Autumn
What to do
Things to do in Amalfi Coast
01
Walk the Path of the Gods
Take the bus up to Bomerano and walk down to Nocelle, then 1,500 steps to Positano — or the bus if your knees object.
02
Use the ferries
From April to October boats connect Salerno, Amalfi, Positano and Sorrento, and the coastline looks better from the water.
03
Spend an afternoon in Ravello
350m above the sea, with two villa gardens and a summer concert season.
04
Eat in Cetara
The least touristed of the main towns and the best place on the coast for fish.
A suggested route
4–5 days in Amalfi Coast
A structure that works, not a schedule to follow to the minute. Move the days around to suit the weather.
Day 1
Settle in Praiano
Central for ferries and buses, quieter than Positano, sunsets face west.
Day 2
Path of the Gods
Early bus to Bomerano, walk to Nocelle, swim in Positano, ferry home.
Day 3
Amalfi and Ravello
Cathedral and paper museum in the morning, bus up to Ravello for the gardens.
Day 4
East coast
Ferry or bus to Cetara and Vietri sul Mare for ceramics and lunch.
What to eat
Scialatielli ai frutti di mare
A short, thick fresh pasta invented on this coast, served with the morning's shellfish.
Colatura di alici
Cetara's amber anchovy sauce, a direct descendant of Roman garum, used sparingly on spaghetti.
Delizia al limone
A lemon sponge dome soaked in limoncello cream — the coast's defining dessert.
Local etiquette
- Lunch runs 13:00–15:00 and dinner starts at 20:00; kitchens genuinely close in between.
- Cover up when entering churches, including the cathedral in Amalfi.
- A coperto (cover charge) on the bill is normal and is not a tip.
Practical notes
- Do not hire a car unless your accommodation guarantees parking — it costs €25–40 a day otherwise.
- The coast bus sells tickets in advance at tabacchi shops; buying on board is not always possible.
- Ferry timetables change monthly; check the day before rather than relying on a printed schedule.
- Bring shoes with grip — almost everything involves steps.
From the archive
Stories from Amalfi Coast
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