Greece · Europe
Two Days in Athens Are Worth More Than You Think
Athens is treated as an airport with ruins attached. Give it 48 hours and it turns into one of the most interesting cities in the Mediterranean.
36.3932° N, 25.4615° E · Europe
A drowned volcano with villages on the rim
The overview
The caldera view is genuinely as good as the photographs suggest. Everything else about Santorini — the crowds, the prices, the heat — depends entirely on which month you arrive.
Santorini is the western rim of a volcano that collapsed into the sea around 1600 BCE, which is why the villages stand on a cliff 300 metres above the water and the beaches on the far side are black. In July and August the caldera path between Fira and Oia carries thousands of people a day and the sunset in Oia becomes a scrum. In late April, mid-May, or the second half of October the same island is warm, quiet, half the price, and the wildflowers are out. The interior — Pyrgos, Emporio, the vineyards where vines are woven into low baskets against the wind — sees a fraction of the visitors and is where the island still feels like itself.
Highlights
Best seasons
What to do
01
Fira to Oia takes about three hours along the rim. Start at 7am in summer; there is no shade and no water for the middle two-thirds.
02
Three or four wineries sit within a few kilometres of Pyrgos. Book a tasting rather than dropping in, and eat before you go.
03
The excavated Minoan town is under cover, so it works in bad weather, but the site gets busy from 10:30.
04
Wind-sculpted pale cliffs and far fewer loungers than Perissa or Kamari.
A suggested route
A structure that works, not a schedule to follow to the minute. Move the days around to suit the weather.
Day 1
Check in at Imerovigli or Firostefani, walk the northern rim at golden hour, dinner away from the caldera edge.
Day 2
Early walk to Oia, lunch there, bus back, evening in Fira.
Day 3
Akrotiri site, Vlychada swim, wineries near Pyrgos, sunset from the Pyrgos castle ruins.
What to eat
Tomatokeftedes
Fritters made from the island's small, intense cherry tomatoes grown without irrigation.
Fava
Split yellow pea purée with capers and onion — Santorini's has protected designation status.
White aubergine
A local variety, sweeter and less bitter, usually grilled or baked with cheese.
Local etiquette
Practical notes
From the archive
Greece · Europe
Athens is treated as an airport with ruins attached. Give it 48 hours and it turns into one of the most interesting cities in the Mediterranean.
Greece · Europe
Ferries in Greece are a network, not a grid. Understanding which islands connect to which is the difference between an easy trip and three wasted days.
Greece · Europe
In August the caldera path is a queue. In late April and October it is a coastal walk with wildflowers. The case for going when everyone else doesn't.
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