Most island-bound travellers give Athens one night and consider it a chore. That is a mistake, and an easily fixed one.

Day one: the classical core, early

Be at the Acropolis for opening. In summer that means 8am, before the heat and the cruise groups. Ninety minutes is enough on the rock itself; then descend to the Acropolis Museum, which holds what the Parthenon lost and explains it well.

Afternoon: the Ancient Agora, quieter and more atmospheric than the Acropolis, with a beautifully preserved temple and a reconstructed stoa. Finish walking through Monastiraki towards Psyrri for dinner.

The Parthenon in early morning light with almost no visitors on the rock
8am on the Acropolis: an hour of near-solitude at the most visited site in Greece.

Day two: the modern city

Start at the National Archaeological Museum, which is the most important collection in the country and consistently less crowded than the Acropolis Museum. Two hours.

Then walk: Exarcheia for political murals and bookshops, Kolonaki for the cafés and the funicular up Lycabettus, Koukaki and Pangrati for the neighbourhoods where Athenians actually eat.

If you have a third day

Take the coastal tram or bus to Cape Sounion for the Temple of Poseidon at sunset, or the ferry to Aegina for an hour of island life without committing to the Cyclades.

For onward travel, see Greek island hopping by ferry.