Machu Picchu's stone terraces with Huayna Picchu rising behind in morning cloud

13.5319° S, 71.9675° W · South America

Cusco & the Sacred Valley

An Inca capital at 3,400m with a valley of ruins below it

CultureAdventureMountainsPhotography

Best time: May to September (dry season); April and October are quieter
How long: 7–9 days
Language: Spanish and Quechua
Currency: Peruvian sol (PEN)
Weather: High-altitude dry season from May to September with cold clear nights near freezing; the wet season from December to March brings daily afternoon rain and the Inca Trail closes in February.
Coordinates: 13.5319° S, 71.9675° W

The overview

Cusco is the gateway to Machu Picchu, but the Sacred Valley below it — lower, warmer and full of terraces, salt pans and weaving towns — deserves as much time.

Cusco was the Inca empire's capital, and the Spanish built directly on top of it, which is why colonial churches sit on Inca foundations no earthquake has shifted. At 3,400m, altitude is the trip's main constraint: most visitors need two or three days to acclimatise, and the Sacred Valley (600m lower) is a more comfortable place to spend them. The valley holds Pisac's terraces, Ollantaytambo's fortress and the salt evaporation ponds at Maras. Machu Picchu now runs on timed-entry circuits with capped daily numbers, and the Inca Trail requires a licensed operator and a permit booked months in advance — though the Salkantay and Lares routes offer alternatives with more availability.

Highlights

Machu Picchu on an early circuit
Ollantaytambo's fortress and its living Inca street plan
Maras salt pans and the Moray terraces
San Pedro market in Cusco
A weaving cooperative in Chinchero

Best seasons

Winter

Spring

Colonial arcades and cathedral facade lit around Cusco's Plaza de Armas at night — Colonial walls on Inca foundations.

Thousands of small white salt evaporation ponds stepped down a hillside at Maras — Maras has been worked since before the Inca.

A weaver working a backstrap loom with brightly dyed red and orange yarn — Chinchero's cooperatives still use natural dyes.

What to do

Things to do in Cusco & the Sacred Valley

Acclimatise in the valley

Spend the first two nights at Urubamba or Ollantaytambo, 600m lower than Cusco, then come up.

Book Machu Picchu properly

Tickets are circuit-specific and timed; buy through the official government portal well ahead.

Walk Moray to Maras

A three-hour downhill walk between the terraced circles and the salt pans.

Take the train to Aguas Calientes

The valley rail line is the only access; the left side has better views going out.

A suggested route

7–9 days in Cusco & the Sacred Valley

A structure that works, not a schedule to follow to the minute. Move the days around to suit the weather.

Days 1–2
Sacred Valley
Land and go straight down to Urubamba; Pisac ruins and market, rest.
Day 3
Ollantaytambo
Fortress in the morning, Moray and Maras in the afternoon.
Day 4
Machu Picchu
Early train, timed circuit, back the same evening or overnight below.
Days 5–7
Cusco
San Blas, the cathedral, Sacsayhuamán, San Pedro market, and a day spare for altitude.

What to eat

Ceviche
Coastal in origin but everywhere; in the highlands, trout replaces sea fish.
Cuy
Roast guinea pig, an Andean festival dish with a long pre-colonial history.
Chicha morada
A sweet purple corn drink served with meals across the region.

Local etiquette

Ask before photographing people in traditional dress; many expect a small payment.
Coca tea and leaves are legal, traditional and genuinely helpful for altitude.
Bargaining in markets is expected but should stay good-natured and modest.

Practical notes

Do not schedule anything strenuous on your first day at altitude, including Machu Picchu.
Inca Trail permits for the June–August season typically sell out by January.
Trains fill in high season; book Ollantaytambo–Aguas Calientes as soon as your dates are set.
ATMs dispense soles; carry small notes for markets and buses.

From the archive